So far my parameter dealings with it have been successful and the comprehensive wiring diagram is becoming a close friend. I was able to hang it and get most of the operational switches re-installed and working this weekend:
Brake trouble light
Lights
Key
Cigarette lighter
Emergency flasher
The emergency flasher that was in the glove box (that fell apart during dismantling) was moved to a dash location with a switch that I got out of the '69. I just had to unwrap the harness back and only cut one wire to make it longer.
The gauge panel lights were all tested and installed as well as the tachometer. I decided to use the wiper switch that came on the F-600 gauge panel. The result after plugging it all in was the old stuff all worked, the brand new high tech Glow Shift Tachometer did not*. It seem to work at idle but when the motor is at about 1,500 rpm, it says 8,000 to 10,000 and anywhere in between. This shut down my progress by trying multiple power sources for my constant and switch power. Nothing worked even though I used their recommend "tach filter" to keep out interference. Just had a thought: Shielded Wire. *NOTE: I talked to Ross at Glow Shift and they are sending a different type of filter that he says will fix the problem. That filter did not work either. Read HERE for the solution.
The tach required constant power and switched (key in on position) power. Being not sure where to source this to prevent overloading anything, I ultimately decided to run a fused power wire from the battery and run a wire from one of the 2 auxiliary connections at the fuse block. Using 2 - 2 wire connectors that I got at O'Reily's, I was able to set up a plug in for the tach and the future radio.
I assembled an ignition wire set (the 3 wires that go from the harness to the coil and oil/temp senders) using an old plug. A new one cost $50 and I didn't see the value in that.
My favorite father in-law bought an old Anes Horn at an estate sale (I am not allowed to call them yard sales) in better condition than the one pictured below. It will be my new horn.
Miscellaneous Issues
The power steering pulley wasn't set far enough in so the belt was tracking off of the crankshaft pulley. I pressed flush with the shaft so that problem was resolved.
After I fixed the belt issue, now the idler pulley is squeaking. Damn the luck.
The rear main seal started leaking pretty good. The consensus amongst my automotive brethren is to give it a chance and that it could be from lack of use.
Don't have the brake lights working but I am guessing that after installing the steering column wiring that they will come around.
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